Distributor - Electronic Ignition

Since the A-Series has such an efficient combustion chamber design, the standard points set-up is perfectly capable of providing sufficient sparks for effective combustion when new. And this is the problem. They require regular servicing to maintain maximum performance. This can be a chore, so is generally neglected. And it doesn't take long before deterioration seriously affects performance. Points bounce is also a problem on high-revving race motors.

Deterioration of the points set-up can be caused by several factors - wear and tear on the dizzy spindle bearings creating 'wobble', electrical erosion of the points, and wear of the points cam heal. All have the same effect - dwell angle alteration. This in turn reduces spark effectiveness. The consequences are a loss in power and economy, poor starting performance, and general poor running.

Distributor - Initial ignition timing set-up.

Any deviation away from the original standard engine specification, or where a dizzy from another source is used in the engine you have, the ignition timing will generally be different from that set by the manufacturer.

Terminology -
Dizzy - Distributor
TDC - Top Dead Centre
BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre
ATDC - After Top Dead Centre
CR - Compression Ratio

Tacho - Tachometer, rev counter (not to be confused with Mexican food delicacy!)
Vac - vacuum (pipe, unit, etc.)

Any deviation away from the original standard engine specification, or where a dizzy from another source is used in the engine you have, the ignition timing will generally be different from that set by the manufacturer.

Distributors - Modifying them, how, where, and who

When a known engine build formula is used, dizzies can be churned out with the relevant advance curve to suit - as in standard production engines. Terminology - Dizzy - Distributor When a known engine build formula is used, dizzies can be churned out with the relevant advance curve to suit - as in standard production engines. Reading the 'dizzy working basics' article defines what the dizzy does and how. It's pretty obvious then that any changes at all in the original engine specification is likely to require a different advance curve. This is where most folk fall down when completing the ‘build for power’, by assuming that an alternative dizzy from a sportier or similarly powered engine will do the trick.A simple illustration is folk's preoccupation with sticking a 'S' dizzy into anything tuned in the belief this is the way to go. It's not. It's likely to be as useful as the one you have.

Distributor - What the A-Series needs.

Any dizzy can be set to get maximum power. No problem. Unfortunately that's only one spot on the whole power curve/rpm range. If the curve isn't right elsewhere, the engine will be either loosing power - in some instances by substantial amounts - or detonating its self into oblivion and a costly re-build.

Terminology -
Dizzy - Distributor
CR - Compression Ratio
VE - Volumetric Efficiency

Large-bore engines are less fussy about exacting ignition requirements than small-bores. The 1100-type being the most difficult to get right, with very particular requirements mid-range when tuned and worlds apart from large-bore curves. This should be remembered when swapping distributors from one engine to another. An 1100 dizzy in a 1275 will at run OK, but a 1275 in an 1100 can be courting disaster.

Distributors - working basics

To maximise power and economy potential from any engine, burning the compressed fuel/air mixture at precisely the right point throughout the engines entire rpm range is essential.

Terminology -
TDC - Top Dead Centre
BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre
Dizzy - distributor
CR - compression ratio

To maximise power and economy potential from any engine, burning the compressed fuel/air mixture at precisely the right point throughout the engines entire rpm range is essential. This ‘point’ is generally somewhere before the piston reaches TDC on its power stroke described in degrees - i.e. 10 degrees BTDC. This point isn’t constant throughout the rpm range. Low rpm values are normally less than high ones.

Ultimately the dizzy provides this spark at exactly the right point to effect this burn.

New CSI electronic ignition distributors

We now have a new range of electronic ignition distributors available.

Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment

When altering the front brake set-up away from the standard installation, it invariably alters the amount of rear brake bias needed to re-balance the cars brake balance.

The problems start occurring when folk graft alternative brake set-ups onto the front of their Minis. Be this 7.5" discs onto a previously drum-braked model, or going from current standard disc set-ups to one of the 4-pot varieties. The question then is 'what bore size rear wheel-cylinders do I need?' Unfortunately this isn't straightforward. Actually, that's not strictly true - more on this later. The pressure developed in the lines determines brake effectiveness - aside from disc size, pad type, co-efficient of friction, etc. that is. Understanding this may assist in choosing which way you should go for your particular set-up.

The basic facts you need to remember when dealing with brake pressures is how they are affected by the components you use.

Cylinder Head - Unleaded Fuel Use

The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. See bottom for useful part numbers. The situation not at all being helped by all sorts of conflicting information from 'leaned' sources, such as lead levels in humans has declined greatly since 1935 - despite the rapidly expanding ownership of petrol-burning vehicles. And benzene and toluene used in unleaded fuels are cancerous. Still, the powers that be are relentlessly forcing through the 'no heavy metals in fuel' bills, not being at all put off by such trivia. Not surprising bearing in mind the complete debacle on the catalytic converter front - the type decided on for world wide and universal use was developed and tested in California!

Cylinder Head - Unleaded Fuel Use

The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. See bottom for useful part numbers. The situation not at all being helped by all sorts of conflicting information from 'leaned' sources, such as lead levels in humans has declined greatly since 1935 - despite the rapidly expanding ownership of petrol-burning vehicles. And benzene and toluene used in unleaded fuels are cancerous. Still, the powers that be are relentlessly forcing through the 'no heavy metals in fuel' bills, not being at all put off by such trivia. Not surprising bearing in mind the complete debacle on the catalytic converter front - the type decided on for world wide and universal use was developed and tested in California!

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

Cylinder Head - Unleaded fuel use

The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this.

Cylinder Head - Unleaded fuel use

The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this.

RUNNING IN NEW ENGINES

Install engine. It is absolutely imperative that the cooling system is more than sufficient to deal with any temperatures likely to be produced by the engine. More power means more heat to be dissipated. A standard radiator is very unlikely to be able to cope with a reasonable power increase over standard.

Do not fill cooling system yet. Set clutch throw-out and free-play take up. Double-check all connections electrical, oil, fuel and cooling system. Put in engine oil – use a cheap multi-grade mineral oil. DO NOT use either semi or full synthetic oils. They will stop the rings from bedding in. Remove spark plugs, and spin engine over in bursts of a few seconds to pick up oil pressure and prevent starter motor damage. DO NOT start engine until oil pressure picks up.

Once oil pressure is showing, check ignition timing statically. Set to figure advised by distributor maker, or if no figures available, set at around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Re-fit spark plugs a

Engine transplants - initial information and engine choices

Is this familiar? - You take the small one out; you put the big one in. In, out, in, out, shake your fist about, you do the hokey-cokey and you turn around, that’s what it’s all about...

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit
Bodge - English term for 'make do' engineering- assured to fail at an in opportune
Moment.
Dizzy - Distributor

NOTE; this information is largely for transplanting large-bore units into small-bore engined cars.

Is this familiar? - You take the small one out; you put the big one in. In, out, in, out, shake your fist about, you do the hokey-cokey and you turn around, that’s what it’s all about...kinda sums up the situation many folk find themselves in when attempting to endow their beloved Min with a more impressive turn of speed.

Ignition - Pertronix Ignitor issues

I have been using the Ignitor ignition systems for some 8 years or so, as long as they have available in the UK, and have never found fault with them nor had any reliability issues. Until the beginning of this year… A new customer for this year, racing an MG Midget here in UK under a limited mods category, was doing splendidly for the first couple of races, then started experiencing a misfire. Initially it was believed to be a fuel starvation/vaporization issue. All fuel pipes were checked and re-routed where it was considered necessary. Those still considered in danger of getting too warm were heat shielded. The misfire persisted. On to the ignition system. All was checked, but then a loose alternator wire was found and blamed for the fault. It wasn't. Back to the ignition system then.

Ignition - What's needed

Firstly - re-runs or re-hashes of technical literary prose always brings to light either new, or old forgotten subjects for close scrutiny/re-examination. The arrival of 'A Well Known A-Series Tuning Bible' is no exception. Good news as far as I'm concerned as it keeps me gainfully employed!

This dissertation is centred upon that old chestnut 'ignition systems'. Technological advances running through the entire automotive world hasn't ignored the system that supplies life-giving sparks to bring your engine alive. It's true - no spark, no power. Much of the technology applied has been about making bigger, fatter, longer lasting, and more consistent sparks. The plethora of Mini spares suppliers have embraced this whole-heartedly as it's another string to their bows of profit generation. And it's this that's causing the problem - again Mini owners are being sold stuff that they don't need, or more pointedly will NOT increase power out-puts one iota.

Injection Cars - Tuning up-date

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program?

It has been a long time between my first few words on basic injection car tuning and these - for that I apologise, but business has been unbelievably fraught this year.

I did promise regular and frequent up-dates, but the best laid plans, and all that… As I said, business has been more than brisk.

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program? Apart from a whole lot of investigation and repetitive research into what's available currently - not that much. It is all hinging on this forthcoming ECU from this particular company. Unfortunately the company concerned is not run by businessman or automotive engineers. They are electronics whiz kids who are trying to achieve the Holy Grail.

Pistons - Mega piston performance report

Under 'Pistons - Favourable features for maximum performance' it would seem that the Mega pistons fit the bill just about spot on for all but perhaps the most extreme of racing engines. Or are they? Having used these pistons in all sizes from +0.020" to 73.5mm in all aspects of use - road/street to full race I am now in a position to give a report on their performance. Some have reservations about using the pistons in racing engines because they are a few grams heavier than other pistons available, and they are cast as opposed to forged. However, Mini Spares recruited the AE Hepolite Group for their unquestionable and renowned design and manufacturing expertise. The goal was to produce the most robust piston possible given reasonable cost and weight limits. Applying current technological advances incorporating their very latest hi-spec AE109TF lightweight alloy and special double heat treatments, the result is an extremely durable piston that will withstand greater cylinder pressure

SU Carbs - The history

Practically every Mini owner can name the brilliant engineer responsible for our obsession. Many can name the man responsible for the rubber suspension spring.

A goodly number know a fair bit about the engine's heritage and the man who came up with the extremely efficient cylinder head design.They account for the biggest chunks of the Mini's anatomy. But what about that other extremely simple yet hugely effective instrument that features so prominently when engine tuning occurs - the SU carburetter? A limited few can tell you what 'SU' stands for, extremely few have any idea of its concept and evolution. So let's put that right… In the beginning Strangely enough, it all started way back with William Banks Skinner; one of the owners/directors of the well-known Lilly and Skinner footwear distributors.